Considered to be one of the most promising young designers in Berlin and a master of deconstruction according to Zeit, Bulgarian designer Vladimir Karaleev has his own, unconventional approach to designing procedure and to fashion itself. I’m too impatient. I work with the original fabric on the doll. All my clothes arise in the work process on the mannequin. I have some idea of the silhouette, but nothing more. If I do not like something, I cut and sew until it is good, to make it smaller or shorter in order to get to the final form. Complex Overlay is the name of Vladimir Karaleev’s new Autumn-Winter 2012/13, recently showed at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week in Berlin. Asymmetrical drapery, open seams, slim dresses and superposition of different fabrics and details determine Karaleev’s latest collection. His minimal, graphic cuts and experimental forms do not fail to create elongated proportions and an unpretentious elegance. What describes his work best is what he says about it. It’s the game with the forms. Well, I can see a lot of them in my wardrobe.
Say the most with the least.
When size matters, good design takes action. And when it comes to a 65sqm apartment, everything needs a little more attention, in terms of design. The flat is located in Portugal, in Carcavelos an area near Lisbon and the architect Hugo Proenca transformed it into a contemporary and adequate, despite its size, single residential home. The use of simple lines, the minimal aesthetic and the smart choice of three, basic, design elements, resulted in a bigger looking space without making any functional compromises. A feeling of whole is achieved by removing any useless interior doors, except from those that lead to the bedroom and bathroom. A mirror wall, just opposite the apartment’s entrance maximizes the illusion of space and depth while the need of storage is solved by transforming two of the living room walls into cabinets. I cannot overlook the concept behind that black carpentry. Lacking height (only 2.10m tall) enters the kitchen’s space, intensifying the sense of continuity. Photography by FG+SG
Gang of is the new, Spring/Summer 2012 collection of the Manila based label Proudrace. Pat Bondoc and Rik Rasos – and industrial designer and a T-shirt designer – the people behind the label, started their fashion journey creating a small T-shirt brand which was gradually developed into a full-fledged label with national and international recognition. This collection, just like the majority of Proudrace’s clothing, is inspired by the 90’s and according to them it’s a gang of nomadic skaters and their trophy girlfriends. But it is more than this; it is a game of textures and materials within the simplicity of an achromatic palette, a curiosity with the uniform dressing of various religious groups and a nostalgic look to their teenage youth. Maybe more; but what they also say about their clothing is that, it’s all about the use of different materials, textures, details and silhouettes to come out with pieces that are unique and subscribes to no particular trend. Proudrace creates hand made minimal pieces and re interprets traditional garments into their own aesthetic. Photography: Everything We Shoot
Two different projects, by one architecture firm, located in the same area, make a clear statement about creative and sustainable interaction of nature and architecture. LJB, a Norwegian based architecture team, were assigned to design two rest stops, the Flotane rest stop and the Vedahaugane lookout, at the Norwegian national tourist Route Aurlandsfjellet. The first one consists of 1200sqm parking area and a tilted, concrete, cube structure that serves as toilet. A simple yet so thoughtful design creates a well protected entrance to the toilet service while at the same time the south façade is covered by solar panels; a solution that allows daylight to enter the interior while protecting it from indiscreet eyes. The second one, the Vedahaugane lookout, could be described as a pathway to nowhere. It is a 90m long curve shaped construction – a concrete line that seems to float above the terrain. A minimal approach with the minimum environmental footprint and a place I would definitely love to visit. Photographs: Statens Vegvesen, E. Marchesi
When two talented people meet, an edgy fashion designer and an unconventional photographer, an astonishing project, intriguing in many levels, originates. The Serpens collection lookbook is the product of the collaboration between the Chinese fashion designer Qui Hao and the Shanghai based, French photographer Matthieu Belin. Named after the constellation of the northern hemisphere – the reptile, the mythological symbol that represents both good and evil – Serpens is as mysterious, futuristic and compelling as its name implies. An extravagant collection in which the size is the absolute dominant. Oversized clothes touched by the magic wand of minimalism. The use of black and white (evil / good) and the absence of colours add an extra dramatic dimension while emphasizing the simple, geometric lines that hide behind the original idea. An unfinished game between textures and sizes. The photography concept is working on the same wavelength. Models like mannequins form geometric shapes with their bodies within the photo frame. Again, the absence of make up and the elimination of shadows produce a neutral canvas, where the clothes seem the only thing alive. Bodies like robots, clothing like structures, a rather architectural approach in a fashion photo shoot.
Minimal and warm; clean, crisp and a place to call home at the same time. Everything is possible when Norm Architecture is involved. The Humlebaek House was a former land workers house, located in Denmark and converted by Danish architecture firm Norm, into a unique home-studio. Originally constructed with brick walls, concrete floor and steel beams, it had almost anything an inspiring conversion needs, except one: adequate daylight. And that was the biggest issue. Unable to interfere in the exterior walls, as the building is protected by local architectural restrictions, the architects had but one choice: walls painted white and a new concrete floor treated with shiny epoxy, to help spread the light. And the result justified them; luminous spaces that reveal their history, a minimal approach with the necessary touch of colour, a well-designed place to feel yourself at home. One of Norm Architects’ best interior projects and certainly one of my favourites.