MLTV Clothing, otherwise known as Molotov Clothing, is an independent Swedish label that has transposed classic menswear with a modern, understated yet relevant identity. The collections, known as Episodes, explore juxtaposition of forms and materials. Firm lines soften with asymmetric cuts in shirts; heavy knits combined with layers of sheer fabrics; a lot of effort has gone into exploring and expressing minimalism in its details and construction. Besides my appreciation for the technical, I was excited to come across Molotov Clothing for the awesome brand styling. MLTV’s founder Anna Sjunnesson has so kindly allowed us to take a sneak peek and to share her upcoming FW2014 collection that will be launching in late August, and shared the inspiration and direction for the collection: We love to work with contradicting themes, where the cohesively is the contrary, and using unexpected details to draw attention to the item and the art. We work hard to keep the impact on the environment at a minimum. Part of it is to create pieces where the items have a greater purpose then just a regular garment; concept, vision and ideal are important compounds in our creations. This is definitely a label to keep a lookout for. The Episodes are available at various retailers. Images...
I was recently introduced to high-end European menswear brand Enfin Levé and their superbly simple Eorri collection. As opposed to the brands mainline avant-garde aesthetics, Eorri extends the direction by releasing minimalist, simple designs made with the finest fabrics for a comfortable, everyday wear with a unique identity. Handcrafting their clothes in small, local ateliers and manufacturers in Italy, Switzerland and Poland, the seasonless silhouettes of Eorri are easy to wear, with an aim to provide the greatest comfort. Having personally experienced the quality of this Eorri collection, which includes slim fit t-shirts made with soft and thin cotton, elastic waistband pants and shorts, Enfin Levé have successfully produced relaxed, minimalist design with an intriguing style, establishing their identity in the men’s market. Available in various menswear stores in Japan and United States, Enfin Levé also ship internationally. Photography by Mateusz Bral / Model: Olaf Piwowa
Berlin based The Medley Institute’s Edition IX subtly plays with the transformation of typical male and female elements. Welcoming the trend towards gender pluralism — as opposed to a binary perception – the designer Jana Patz closely surveyed the influence of womenswear on mens clothing over the last few seasons. New styles evolved and by transferring those back into her line — which was originally womens’ jewelry only — she added a new and refined twist. Each piece of the collection should stand for itself. Being stripped of any decorative aspects, they are meant to convey a modern approach towards jewellery. This results in a clear and simultaneously brainy collection, even more minimalist than those before it. A square wire is the base for some of the more unisex open bracelets and rings. As The Medley Institute is always on the lookout for new ways to connect pieces to the body, pins have been added to this collection. They can be worn more like an accessory than as jewellery, providing an alluring contrast between the pieces themselves and the fabric they are worn with.
Jil Sander’s 2015 Resort collection is one heavily influenced by themes of movement. The pieces themselves, the cuts and the execution seem to mirror the flurry of design movement of the label. Staying true to the minimalist principles of the label, the collection is a synergy of crisp shapes that appeared to have liquid coursing through them and know constructions that create volume in simple jackets. There is an overt influence of versatility. The label, once described as the queen of less, despite said movements, has maintained its clarity and modern classic appeal. Timeless in its approach, Jil Sander has continued to show a dedication to tailoring and focus in the Resort 2015 collection. There is an effortless to each piece, curating an assemblage of want. I for one, am wanting of that timeless want. Photography courtesy of Jil Sander.
Mansur Gavriel is the highly sought-after label with a collection of beautifully designed leather bags made and crafted in Italy. Designed by Rachel Mansur and Floriana Gavriel who moved to New York City especially to start their company, the collection first surfaced in the summer of 2013 and saw immediate success, being sold out as soon as it hit the stores. The label has continued to deliver their minimalist designs of signature tote and bucket bags that come in bold pops of single color or contrasting outer tanned leather with matte patent interiors. The craftsmanship of these bags reveal just enough detail of the effortless style behind the designs which is what I love most about this label. It is a true practice of patience to get your hands on one.
The Australian queens of staple wardrobe have done it again! Mary-Lou Ryan and Deborah Sams of Warriewood based label Bassike — spoken Basic — seem to get more distinctive with every collection they design. They effortlessly stick to the brand’s core business by creating a wardrobe of relaxed, minimal pieces, while at the same time implementing new ideas and a fresh styling for Spring/Summer 2014. It seems like some new colors and patterns were mixed into the current collection: Bassike’s signature neutral palette is carefully complemented with some earthy tones and patterns abstracted from classic menswear. The silhouettes are even more loose-fitting and oversized than before. However, the overall look is still luxurious and elaborate, which is probably due to the carefully chosen fabrics, mainly produced in Australia, Italy and France. So if you want to take your relaxed beach feeling downtown with style, Bassike’s SS2014 collection is definitely the right choice for hitting the bars and clubs.
One of world’s most prolific studios, Nendo, recently unveiled another beautiful minimalist design. Snap Glasses are made from light, flexible polycarbonate resin and envisioned for those of us who need reading and computer spectacles. When folded, they snap onto the nose supports (hence the name), which allows them to stay in place and create a thin profile. Another fun element is the interchangeable arms, that detach at the temples, so you can enjoy different colour combinations. The available colours are black, red, beige, grey, matte brown, matte green, matte blue and matte dark grey. Snap Glasses are exclusively available from Seibu department stores.
British Fashion Designer Charlie May, advocate of minimalism since launching her first collection in 2010, keeps on refining her style with her immaculate A/W 14 collection. A bold but carefully designed black and white contrast plays well alongside monochrome looks, which come alive through the use of distinctly chosen fabric textures. The silhouettes range from feminine to Garconne, while the styling allows a thought of 50′s college girl attitude. Sharp outlines, classic pieces and a relaxed but very confident composure are the core ingredients to this immaculate collection. I really embrace Charlie May’s effortless style of comfortable yet intricate pieces, which should easily last many seasons. On the one hand there is a very personal handwriting in the way she designs her collection, on the other, every piece of the line should integrate well with any individual look of her customers. That is the craftsmanship of design in full bloom.
The launch of Australian label, Eska Alikai‘s AW 2014 collection by Micha Dyball consists of elegant, minimalist pieces that are indicative of both a confident presence as well as a pragmatic need for comfort. Her minimalist sensibilities are designed into soft leather, eco-friendly tencel, fleece, denim and cotton voile. The details of layering add a lot of personality into the clean, geometric pieces. I found this collection so appealing as each outfit is styled to celebrate the structure and fluidity in the mixed use of material and yet, it is easy to wear. Eska Alikai may be relatively new to deliver a full collection but the label has achieved much success in editorial exposure and already has an e-commerce site. I am looking forward to the next collection already. Images courtesy of Eska Alikai.
Restored is an Amsterdam based store that collects and sells unique products from talented designers and small labels, offering them a platform to share their products and visions with a wider public. An ode to beauty, balance and originality, Restored features a concise collection of simple, minimalist designs ranging from exquisite garments and accessories to wonderfully handcrafted household items — some of which you may already be familiar with, having previously been featured here on Minimalissimo. And today, we’re excited to share a few more with you. A store I would love to drop in on the next time I’m exploring the streets of Amsterdam, but for the time being, it’s a pleasure getting lost browsing their online shop. Restored are also kindly offering a 15% discount on all products until 30 June, using the code: ENJOYJUNE
Fusing traditional manufacturing with hi-tech fabrics while ensuring that the construction of the garments is not too heavy: that is what Sydney based designers Lyna Ty and Melvin Tanaya of Song for the Mute aimed for while designing their latest collection, GREY. And they most definitely hit the mark. Their darker, more tailored aesthetic goes along perfectly with new, younger, more relaxed sportswear elements. Clients familiar with Song for the Mute can still expect some signature silhouettes, but be prepared for a fresh twist on theses classic shapes. Crafted from virgin wool blends, alpaca and with further development of our paraffin and resin coated fabrics this seasons subsequent construction aims to heighten those tactile sensations. Showing the beautiful Fall/Winter 2014 collection GREY at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Sydney, Song for the Mute further established their point of difference in the men’s market by being particularly fabric-driven. On top of that, American rapper and loyal friend of the brand Lupe Fiasco flew to Sydney to join the show for a runway appearance, highlighting Song for the Mute’s roots in contemporary independent pop culture.
Most of our readers must have remembered Dylan Cao, a young accessories designer based in New York, from our Inside Instagram feature. Now with a degree and the title Designer of The Year for Accessories Design from Parsons University, he is here again to showcase his awarded footwear collection. Simply coating in white, this series of minimal designs reflects the designer’s personal experience as a mental patient. The stark and pristine definition faithfully delivers the sterility of an institution; however in this case, sterility takes on many other layers of complexity. To contrast the monotony, the decision to include the metal heels, as a direct translation of the sterile stools at the facility, is rather clever. Not only that, but they also have a relation to the doctoral equipments, taking on different geometric shapes. The inclusion of screws creates machinery image while the interplay of leather panels gives a newness to the silhouettes. As a whole, it is an experimentation of form and structure, as well as color (or the lack thereof) and material. I especially enjoy the addition of the supporting leather strap on one of the sandals. Even without the apparent appearance of the metal legs, that line adds...