It is always exciting to find innovative designers off the beaten track. Tiko Paksashvili from Tbilisi, Georgia, is such a designer. Currently working for fashion house Matériel, she created a pure, elegant Autumn/Winter 15/16 collection which radiates a warm, embracing aura. Tiko understands not only the limitations, but also the opportunities that lie in exploring the outline and volume of a silhouette. She skilfully cuts through these outlines by integrating multilayered textures and transparent elements into the outfits. The colour palette is reduced to black, white and natural hues of grey, and there seems to be only one pattern: subtle window check. My personal favourites are the outfits which combine soft winterly padded clothes with transparent layers, creating their very own patterns just by combination.
Based in Melbourne, 11:11 is a studio that specialises in hand-crafted leather goods. With a background in interior design, its two designers incorporate architectural elements into their products to create an experimentation between old and new. When browsing through their online store, I was taken by the beautiful 11:11:01 tote bag. With such a clever and cheeky name, the bag proves to be just as similar — quirky and quite unique. Large bags often have the stigma of being over-designed, but 11:11:01 is a combination of modernity and simplicity. As the founders mention: With a penchant for architectural aesthetics that reflect the creative soul of the city, Studio 11:11 prefers simplicity to perfection. The urban feel is clearly embedded within this bag, especially through the perforated leather strip and brass handle. The polished metal reaffirms the bag’s structure and adds a certain wonder to the already wonderful mass of black leather. Large, minimal, and consistent down to every stitch, 11:11:01 reimagines the definition of a tote bag. Hand made to order, this accessory is a must have for fashion enthusiasts who prefer a personal touch to their purchases. Photography by Nicholas John Wilkins.
Agata Bieleń’s collaboration with Mosses Lichen sees the launch of a nature inspired line. The Nature Line Collection is, as the name suggests, mused by nature and the organic and seamless lines that result. Available in a sterling silver finish, all pieces are subtle lines of irregularly shaped geometries for adornment. The feint and light-weightedness of the collection is typical of Bieleń, and her style, and this collection is no exception. This collection sees a launch from her traditional, more rigid geometries and sees her exploring natural materials and fauna as inspiration. Based in Poland, the emphasis is on round and soft forms which opposes her traditional style. Inspired by water lilies floating on the pond surface and spreading aquatic circles, organic and light objects adapt to the part of the female body discreetly emphasizing their shape and beauty. Handcrafted and playing on the cross-over of modernity and natural form, this collection is a beautiful addition. Photography courtesy of Marta Zgierska, Michał Matejko and Mchy Porosty.
Multi-medium, Los Angeles-based studio Building Block never cease to impress with their impeccable leather products — the recent Spring Summer 2015 additions to their elegant repertoire are proof of that. The Wu sisters work raw leather into common, everyday shapes and accentuate them with playful, unique details, clearing away conventional standards of luxury by magnifying what is essential and editing out excess. I particularly love the addition of footwear to their brand — the geometric leather sandals are perfect for the season.
A decade is a long time in the fashion industry these days. Australian minimalist style icon Josh Goot hit this important mark in 2015, and topped it off not only by overcoming structural mishaps, but also by refining his signature style and presenting a defining and extensive Resort 2016 collection. It is so rich in forward-looking silhouettes that it’s hardly possible to present them all here. So make sure to have a look at the whole collection. Every outfit in itself is a strong statement. At the same time Josh Goot’s powerful signature look builds an overarching bracket around the collection. It is recognizably one piece of work. I love the broad variety of monochrome white outfits of which many are set in different shades of the non-color. It feels like diving into the very special sunlight of Australian beaches. Additionally the collection integrates colors and prints which are at first glance everything else but minimalist. But the way they are set and handled just emphasize the clear cut and reduced looks so typical for Josh Goot. It is very pleasing to know that Goot and his namesake label will keep on enriching the international fashion scene. Photography courtesy of...
Danish womenswear designer Vibe Johansson sets a quiet tone with her Autumn/Winter 2015 collection. It is all about purity, shelter and a new awareness for sensory surroundings: Turned off, faded out, allowing silence to fill our thoughts. When stripped from all exterior noise, one returns to self. But what does that actually look like? Sculptured silhouettes are carefully built by immaculate layering. Lamb fur, heavy locked jersey and wool protect the wearer, while organza silk, sheer cotton and angora balance the weight and provide the collection with textured contrasts. Nevertheless, Vibe Johansson fulfils the promise of designing a style which suits your everyday life by completing the looks with tactile closures and functional zips. It is a pleasure to dive into detailed descriptions of this multilayered collection. But looking at the imagery of Hodur Ingason, it also very much speaks for itself. Photography by Hordur Ingason, art direction by Marlo Saalmink, and styling by Vibe Johansson.
Exclusivity has always been a clever marketing scheme for designs, especially for the fashion industry. Continuing with the ongoing collaboration between British fashion brand COS and Serpentine Galleries in London, the minimal Serpentine Bag, inspired by the 2015 pavilion, has marked the supportive attitude of two creative fields. If one knows of the 2015 Serpentine Pavilion, one can see the total contrast between it and its inspired product. While the installation contains a diverse degree of opacity and a prism field of colors, the bag is made of an opaque off-white canvas with grey leather straps. Many spectators have voiced the contrast as a misopportunity to carry out the pavilion’s essence. However, I would argue that the bag acts an absorption of the maximalism in the bigger structure to be represented in a minimalistic manner. With its top folded down and secured with a simple buckle, the fold almost mimics the complex connections. Meanwhile, its boxy shape exudes an architectural feeling. The bag is now available online and in several COS stores within London for a limited time. Serpentine Trust will receive all the proceeds from sales in order to support its annual commission given to an architect. Minimal and beautifully constructed, the Serpentine...
Public School’s Resort 2016 collection is a strong statement of forms and lines. Collating as a collection of black, white, silver and grey, Resort 2016 explores a street style that imbues a level of embedded sophistication. Formally, the tailoring is well considered, together with relaxed cuts, this collection is one of cool cred. Based out of New York City, designers Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne created the label Public School based on a strong lineage of refined simplicity. Their work is renowned for its lines being clean, urban ones with an emphasis on accessibility to the American and in particular, New York style. Each piece is a considered fusion of cut and discipline. Watch this space. Photography courtesy of Public School.
One shape, two high-end materials and an origin story that is touching and professionally convincing: These are the ingredients of BLYSZAK eyewear, a brand-new line of sunglasses by Andrew Blyszak. Being a successful consultant to niche luxury fashion brands, Andrew Blyszak knew exactly what to do when he realized that he would not find the right replacement for his beaten up southern french flea market sunnies. He found ethically sourced horn by-product and also found the perfect artisan to shape it exactly like his beloved sunglasses. He mixed the design with coated grade-A steel and made sure the result would suit men as well as women. Personally I prefer to think of all niche products as unisex to some degree. The collection has a genderless mood, which I think is reflected in the campaign imagery and true, the style sits well on both boys and girls. — Interview with sharpenedlead He is so right about the campaign. And that is very much due to the immaculate images taken by Paul Jung, who is famous for his clear but avant-garde style. I love the way Andrew Blyszak used his expertise to create an everyday object with an enduring design which still...
Architecture infused with natural form: That is how Los Angeles based designer Zaid Affas describes the Spring/Summer 2015 collection of his eponymous label. Luxurious fabrics from the mills of Japan, Europe and Great Britain come in clear but warm colors, such as off white, cream and dark sand, matched with austere silhouettes in black and distressed silver. I’m very much taken by the decisive message of the Zaid Affas’ work, which is perfectly conveyed by the very sunny yet austere imagery of the current collection. The architectural silhouettes are presented by the models like sculptures from an ancient culture, while heat and weathering seem to refine the surface of the fabrics in a unique way. It’s a perfect balance between ease and severity.
Investing in a versatile white shirt can be an easy way for a woman to look great. A wardrobe staple. However simple a white shirt may seem, it is one of the most challenging designs to perfect. When introduced to in-grid, a British fashion brand, I was struck by the description: We make white shirts. For women. Made in England. The standard white collared shirts are converted into beautifully cut blouses, mostly without collars, to signify a femininity. The variations of these cotton pieces not only lie in the different cuts of short sleeves and long sleeves, but also in the details such as curved hems, hidden buttons, and quirky slits. Transformation of the minimalist white shirt has made the basic item more versatile and diverse. I especially enjoy the transparency overlays of some of the shirts; they give a sense of elegant provocation.
Start with the name based on a Walloon term meaning skylark, the agile and light bird, and you begin to unravel a bit more about Aloye, a Tokyo based fashion brand. Next, take a look at the utter simplicity from the showcased apparel, it’s not surprising to identify a penchant for straightforwardness from the collection. Lightness and minimalism goes hand in hand, after all. For the Spring / Summer 2015 collection, Aloye bets it all on color duality and precisely tailored pieces as the main attraction. Taking the ever reliable white and navy blue as the flagship combination, the brand plays and toys using slight variations of quintessential cuts for each garment, like school uniforms. From subtle textures on dresses to blatant monochromatic textiles on shirts, it’s a very precise exercise to make basic apparel attractive; and without resorting to gimmicks. The photo editorial sets the tone with a very charming and nautical feeling, interestingly enough; this wouldn’t feel out of place as a Resort collection from an established brand taking a break from excessiveness.