Phoebe Philo, current creative director of Céline, is arguably one of the leaders in minimal womenswear. With a solid vision and an unbreakable attitude towards the industry, the designer has taken the brand into the top tier of high fashion. Hidden from public viewers for a period of time, the house finally released the images for their Fall 2015 collection. That kind of exclusivity not only demands the consumers’ attention, but it also gives thoughts regarding the fashion’s economy. Continuing with her obsession over simple and quirky cuts, Fall is coming with many fringes and earthy colors. Boxy trousers and structural coats play a prominent part, shaping a strong silhouette for the Céline woman. Meanwhile, long dresses soften up that image. The featured dress, tied at the front to create subtle folding lines, drapes over the model’s elongated figure and gives some sense of modern elegance. Overall, the collection was a simple one, but surely with a certain newness that keeps minimalism exciting. Philo, keep that legacy going! Photography courtesy of Céline.
It often feels that Los Angeles-based designers Co conceive everything about a collection as a whole. From the inspiration to the presentation, from the type of woman who wears each piece to the mood she evokes. The spirit of the woman is captured together with the design of each piece. Every detail is calculated and nothing feels accidental, as it most certainly is here in their Pre-Fall collection for 2015. A certain heaviness with the use of silk jacquard, fur and knits in shades of white, black and grey render a dark romanticism that give the minimalist collection a mysterious luxury. Whether it is the discreetly caped dress, knitted bell sleeves or mocked turtle neck, I could not imagine a more elegant and beautiful collection to preempt the change in season. Photography courtesy of Style.com
With his RTW Collection #11 Rad Hourani artfully underlines his signature style of architectural and pure looks. Besides his honored haute couture line, the Paris based designer with roots in Jordan and Canada now fields a strong additional oeuvre: his own scent Ascent, his RTW line — by the name of RAD by Rad Hourani — and a parisian gallery. While he constantly experiments and broadens his approach towards the arts and fashion through his endeavors, the ready to wear line seems to be the foundation of his unisex signature style. I’m attached to the notion of purity. And by choosing simple, stark lines, I strive to blur gender boundaries… My pieces are timeless and free of gender differentiation. — Sixth Finger Interview It is remarkable how Rad Hourani manages to persistently iterate a design language that stands out by its radical confinement in shape and color. The effect of this work will never stop awing me. His designs will never get old.
Silent is Paris-based designer Damir Doma‘s diffusion line launched in 2010. In his AW 2015 Women’s collection, a language of urban minimalism surfaces as his pieces of his look book sit aside images of architecture, taking modern sportswear into the realm of stylish elegance. Addressing the needs of the active, modern woman, curves and edges in the silhouettes of the collection translate into the sporty turtle neck collars, asymmetrical A-lines and cut-outs, suggesting they were intended for the ease of movement. Sweater dresses are explored both as oversized and fitting, while the contrast in piping, exposed stitching and seams reiterate the architectonic elements that Doma so beautifully alludes to. These poised pieces are most chic and graceful, resulting in, for lack of better words: utilitarian made very sexy.
An exciting balance between Scandinavian minimalism and slightly melancholic drama: that is what Copenhagen based womenswear designer Vibe Johansson light-handedly fuses in her current summer collection. Maybe it’s due to her growing up in the Hamlet city of Elsinor, or maybe she just perfectly manages to integrate the impressions of her extensive travels into her northern soul. Whatever the cause, Vibe Johansson’s designs radiate a subversive elegance which makes its wearer stand out without being invasive. Questioning beauty and looking for it in dark places, physical as well as mental, is where it all began for me. — The Kinsky Interview I simply love the way this collection combines expressive textures with pure geometric shapes and a soft flow of fabrics. Vibe describes the behavior of her garments as defiant, yet controlled. And I feel like this is an attitude which might nicely mark off onto its wearer. Photography by Emil Monty. Art Direction by Marlo Saalmink. Styling by Vibe Johansson.
It is only the second collection of Warsaw based fashion brand THISISNON, but an international audience for their designs is already well established. The new summer collection, RAW SILK consolidates THISISNON’s concept of presenting only a few essential pieces — in this case six pieces made of 100% silk — to encourage respect for the world’s resources and professional craftsmanship. The collection’s use of raw, undyed fabric reveals the natural structure of silk, while the chosen shade of white evokes the rawness of sandstone and clay. The immaculate way THISISNON translates the above aspiration into a self-contained style, imagery and communication is simply captivating. Their pieces are the perfect example of high-end garments not conflicting with everyday life, but reminding their wearer of why certain materials — like merino wool or silk — became so loved in the first place. Wearing anything less suddenly seems quite pointless.
Hamburg-based label Nebel has created a label that is principled on a versatile and minimalist style for both men and women. Founded by Daniel Bartels and his girlfriend Hanna Lundvall, the idea of the brand is to possess the appeal to both sexes, a style that is unisex, neutral and timeless, one that can be shared in a relationship. Buy less, Share well as their motto goes, the result is a palette that identifies as an urban, avant-garde aesthetic as the pieces take on a different characteristic when worn by the different sexes. Large pullovers can transform more femininely as tunics; layers are draped and folded in various ways because of the differing physical proportions of the sexes, yet they are neutral enough to allow the wearer to express their individuality within the blurred lines of this unisex style. Like its name which means fog in German, Nebel has undefined the need specificity and achieved versatility as a style.
Inspired by East Londoners’ pastel-hued hairstyles and boasting a 30-year heritage of traditional British manufacturing, accessories brand Ally Capellino‘s SS15 collection features a rose-tinted collection of rucksacks, satchels and bike-bags in ice cream shades and pastel hues, with every design constructed using waxed cotton and Italian veg-tanned leather. Photographed by Agnes Lloyd Platt with styling by Aurelia Donaldson, make-up by Sky Cripps-Jackson and hair colouring by Olivia Crighton of Glasshouse Salon, the lookbook materializes a beautifully simple idea brought to life by colour-blocking, elegant set design and flawless execution.
London based design duo BARBARA ALAN highly values research and experimentation in their approach towards design. Their aim is to reduce every piece to its very essentials, while still paying close attention to detail. For Spring / Summer 2015 it is all about juxtaposing lengths, new structures and floating silhouettes. While shapes are cut in geometric patterns, the free flowing, sometimes transparent fabrics add a soft touch to the summery layering. It is a pleasure to dive into the modernist world of BARBARA ALAN designs, where sculptural cutlines and a laid-back attitude are no contradiction. My favorite detail is the clean and pure stitch-free hemline finish, made possible by a high-tech bonding technique. All in all, a perfect collection to build a long-lasting, pure and modern wardrobe upon.
Swedish independent label MLTV has launched its Spring Summer 2015 menswear collection exhibiting sensual pieces with revealing cutouts, architectural lines and contrasting fabrics. MLTV’s founder Anna Sjunnesson expresses a curious androgyny in this collection which is what she describes as a progressive minimalism. The collection called Episode Six consists of lightweight items, inspired by architecture and geometry while combining soft, light flowing fabrics. With the use of fabrics of different thickness and weave density, Anna has created architectural cutouts which highlight and interact with the body in different ways. In some shots of the campaign, gender lines appear deliberately blurred in the look and feel. With these contradicting themes that drive the design for this season, the result is a relaxed and casual collection beyond traditional menswear. Photography courtesy of Anna Sjunnesson.
New York based fashion designer Melitta Baumeister just made her second big impact after graduating from Parsons MFA Fashion course with her critically acclaimed White Collection. Despite the pressure of delivering a collection as good — or even better — than its precursor, Baumeister stayed true to herself and to the recognizable collaboration with her creative partner, photographer Paul Jung. The Spring Summer 2015 collection is a full-on, positively surprising exploration of new forms, materials and silhouettes. In fashion it is rare that one can honestly say: This work is unique. For Melitta Baumeister and Paul Jung, it is simply true. The color palette is broadened from monochrome white to include black and a very light nude. But as to be expected with Baumeisters signature style, the collection is much more about the extraordinary surfaces, shapes and production methods than it is about colors. I am stunned by Melitta Baumeisters abilty to create a collection that is so avant-garde while never loosing track of the right proportions and the perfect wrapping of the female body. While cuffs, volumes or drapings are sensibly exaggerated, the balance is always maintained by an hourglass outline, huge transparent areas or downright feminine silhouettes. It seems...
Not everyone is familiar with the name Gabriele Colangelo. However, that might change soon with the current rise of this Milan-based designer. Colangelo started his career designing for Versace and Cavalli. With that background, we would expect his namesake label to be just as maximal as his previous mentors. However, it’s rather the complete opposite; lying under each and every design of his is a sense of minimalism that directly ties with maturity and luxury. His most recent collection for Fall Winter 2015 proves that just right. If there was anything maximal about Colangelo, it would be the cuts of his garments. The forms were so complex with twists, drapes, and slits, that we started to question the deconstruction of each look. While the colors stay true with a minimalist essence (such as navy, white, and ivory), fuchsia acted as a device to glue the whole collection together as one cohesive story. There is a kind of elegance in the way circular metal ornaments hold the clothes’ structures together. The neck pieces are also a delightful addition that I adore so much. Overall, it was a show that challenged minimalist fashion, especially in the setting of Milan Fashion Week, much...