Danish womenswear designer Vibe Johansson sets a quiet tone with her Autumn/Winter 2015 collection. It is all about purity, shelter and a new awareness for sensory surroundings: Turned off, faded out, allowing silence to fill our thoughts. When stripped from all exterior noise, one returns to self. But what does that actually look like? Sculptured silhouettes are carefully built by immaculate layering. Lamb fur, heavy locked jersey and wool protect the wearer, while organza silk, sheer cotton and angora balance the weight and provide the collection with textured contrasts. Nevertheless, Vibe Johansson fulfils the promise of designing a style which suits your everyday life by completing the looks with tactile closures and functional zips. It is a pleasure to dive into detailed descriptions of this multilayered collection. But looking at the imagery of Hodur Ingason, it also very much speaks for itself. Photography by Hordur Ingason, art direction by Marlo Saalmink, and styling by Vibe Johansson.
Public School’s Resort 2016 collection is a strong statement of forms and lines. Collating as a collection of black, white, silver and grey, Resort 2016 explores a street style that imbues a level of embedded sophistication. Formally, the tailoring is well considered, together with relaxed cuts, this collection is one of cool cred. Based out of New York City, designers Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne created the label Public School based on a strong lineage of refined simplicity. Their work is renowned for its lines being clean, urban ones with an emphasis on accessibility to the American and in particular, New York style. Each piece is a considered fusion of cut and discipline. Watch this space. Photography courtesy of Public School.
Architecture infused with natural form: That is how Los Angeles based designer Zaid Affas describes the Spring/Summer 2015 collection of his eponymous label. Luxurious fabrics from the mills of Japan, Europe and Great Britain come in clear but warm colors, such as off white, cream and dark sand, matched with austere silhouettes in black and distressed silver. I’m very much taken by the decisive message of the Zaid Affas’ work, which is perfectly conveyed by the very sunny yet austere imagery of the current collection. The architectural silhouettes are presented by the models like sculptures from an ancient culture, while heat and weathering seem to refine the surface of the fabrics in a unique way. It’s a perfect balance between ease and severity.
Investing in a versatile white shirt can be an easy way for a woman to look great. A wardrobe staple. However simple a white shirt may seem, it is one of the most challenging designs to perfect. When introduced to in-grid, a British fashion brand, I was struck by the description: We make white shirts. For women. Made in England. The standard white collared shirts are converted into beautifully cut blouses, mostly without collars, to signify a femininity. The variations of these cotton pieces not only lie in the different cuts of short sleeves and long sleeves, but also in the details such as curved hems, hidden buttons, and quirky slits. Transformation of the minimalist white shirt has made the basic item more versatile and diverse. I especially enjoy the transparency overlays of some of the shirts; they give a sense of elegant provocation.
Start with the name based on a Walloon term meaning skylark, the agile and light bird, and you begin to unravel a bit more about Aloye, a Tokyo based fashion brand. Next, take a look at the utter simplicity from the showcased apparel, it’s not surprising to identify a penchant for straightforwardness from the collection. Lightness and minimalism goes hand in hand, after all. For the Spring / Summer 2015 collection, Aloye bets it all on color duality and precisely tailored pieces as the main attraction. Taking the ever reliable white and navy blue as the flagship combination, the brand plays and toys using slight variations of quintessential cuts for each garment, like school uniforms. From subtle textures on dresses to blatant monochromatic textiles on shirts, it’s a very precise exercise to make basic apparel attractive; and without resorting to gimmicks. The photo editorial sets the tone with a very charming and nautical feeling, interestingly enough; this wouldn’t feel out of place as a Resort collection from an established brand taking a break from excessiveness.
Tactile fabrics, minimalist pieces and exceptional silhouettes — this Autumn Winter 2015 collection has it all! The eponymous womenswear label of Girl a la Mode, Charlie May transforms minimalism into a very personal, very unique style: one whose pieces will easily outlast any season and any trend. In addition, Charlie May perfectly balances elegance and effortlessness with a styling which dips lightly into sportswear, while the silhouettes remain chic. Raw denim combined with fuzzy wool, draped pieces arranged with preppy shirts, Marlene pants with Converse shoes: By perfectly blending these contradictions Charlie May manages to emphasize the specific beauty of every single piece and every single stylistic movement she invokes, be it everyday street-style or an avant-garde oversized look.
Phoebe Philo, current creative director of Céline, is arguably one of the leaders in minimal womenswear. With a solid vision and an unbreakable attitude towards the industry, the designer has taken the brand into the top tier of high fashion. Hidden from public viewers for a period of time, the house finally released the images for their Fall 2015 collection. That kind of exclusivity not only demands the consumers’ attention, but it also gives thoughts regarding the fashion’s economy. Continuing with her obsession over simple and quirky cuts, Fall is coming with many fringes and earthy colors. Boxy trousers and structural coats play a prominent part, shaping a strong silhouette for the Céline woman. Meanwhile, long dresses soften up that image. The featured dress, tied at the front to create subtle folding lines, drapes over the model’s elongated figure and gives some sense of modern elegance. Overall, the collection was a simple one, but surely with a certain newness that keeps minimalism exciting. Philo, keep that legacy going! Photography courtesy of Céline.
It often feels that Los Angeles-based designers Co conceive everything about a collection as a whole. From the inspiration to the presentation, from the type of woman who wears each piece to the mood she evokes. The spirit of the woman is captured together with the design of each piece. Every detail is calculated and nothing feels accidental, as it most certainly is here in their Pre-Fall collection for 2015. A certain heaviness with the use of silk jacquard, fur and knits in shades of white, black and grey render a dark romanticism that give the minimalist collection a mysterious luxury. Whether it is the discreetly caped dress, knitted bell sleeves or mocked turtle neck, I could not imagine a more elegant and beautiful collection to preempt the change in season. Photography courtesy of Style.com
With his RTW Collection #11 Rad Hourani artfully underlines his signature style of architectural and pure looks. Besides his honored haute couture line, the Paris based designer with roots in Jordan and Canada now fields a strong additional oeuvre: his own scent Ascent, his RTW line — by the name of RAD by Rad Hourani — and a parisian gallery. While he constantly experiments and broadens his approach towards the arts and fashion through his endeavors, the ready to wear line seems to be the foundation of his unisex signature style. I’m attached to the notion of purity. And by choosing simple, stark lines, I strive to blur gender boundaries… My pieces are timeless and free of gender differentiation. — Sixth Finger Interview It is remarkable how Rad Hourani manages to persistently iterate a design language that stands out by its radical confinement in shape and color. The effect of this work will never stop awing me. His designs will never get old.
Silent is Paris-based designer Damir Doma‘s diffusion line launched in 2010. In his AW 2015 Women’s collection, a language of urban minimalism surfaces as his pieces of his look book sit aside images of architecture, taking modern sportswear into the realm of stylish elegance. Addressing the needs of the active, modern woman, curves and edges in the silhouettes of the collection translate into the sporty turtle neck collars, asymmetrical A-lines and cut-outs, suggesting they were intended for the ease of movement. Sweater dresses are explored both as oversized and fitting, while the contrast in piping, exposed stitching and seams reiterate the architectonic elements that Doma so beautifully alludes to. These poised pieces are most chic and graceful, resulting in, for lack of better words: utilitarian made very sexy.
An exciting balance between Scandinavian minimalism and slightly melancholic drama: that is what Copenhagen based womenswear designer Vibe Johansson light-handedly fuses in her current summer collection. Maybe it’s due to her growing up in the Hamlet city of Elsinor, or maybe she just perfectly manages to integrate the impressions of her extensive travels into her northern soul. Whatever the cause, Vibe Johansson’s designs radiate a subversive elegance which makes its wearer stand out without being invasive. Questioning beauty and looking for it in dark places, physical as well as mental, is where it all began for me. — The Kinsky Interview I simply love the way this collection combines expressive textures with pure geometric shapes and a soft flow of fabrics. Vibe describes the behavior of her garments as defiant, yet controlled. And I feel like this is an attitude which might nicely mark off onto its wearer. Photography by Emil Monty. Art Direction by Marlo Saalmink. Styling by Vibe Johansson.
It is only the second collection of Warsaw based fashion brand THISISNON, but an international audience for their designs is already well established. The new summer collection, RAW SILK consolidates THISISNON’s concept of presenting only a few essential pieces — in this case six pieces made of 100% silk — to encourage respect for the world’s resources and professional craftsmanship. The collection’s use of raw, undyed fabric reveals the natural structure of silk, while the chosen shade of white evokes the rawness of sandstone and clay. The immaculate way THISISNON translates the above aspiration into a self-contained style, imagery and communication is simply captivating. Their pieces are the perfect example of high-end garments not conflicting with everyday life, but reminding their wearer of why certain materials — like merino wool or silk — became so loved in the first place. Wearing anything less suddenly seems quite pointless.