Camilla and Marc’s SS 2014 collection embodies what their brand has always preached; flattering silhouettes, clean lines, keen attention to detail. The collection sees a fusion of strong lines, draping and a restrained palette. The resulting pieces embody minimalism to a tee and are fresh beautiful adornments. They can’t help but entice mass envy. Based in Australia and built on a contemporary and effortlessly elegant philosophy, their portfolio is nothing short of handsome. Since their launch in 2003, Camilla and Marc have headed innovation in luxury Australian women’s fashion. The brother and sister duo’s passion for working with quality textiles and couturier techniques such as draping have seen them hold their own. SS 2014 is a curation of beautiful, considered and texturally opulent pieces. Knowing them is a must. Photography courtesy of Camilla and Marc.
Last year we introduced Thisispaper’s beautifully basic Natural Irma Bag — and today we are featuring their new range of minimalist bags & rucksacks, showcased in their impressively designed online shop. Designed and manufactured by Thisispaper, by hand, in their Warsaw based studio, the range includes the beautiful Top Roll Rucksack — 100% cotton, the minimal and elegant Pocket Bag — 100% linen, and the stylish yet durable Market Bag — 100% cotton — all featuring vegetable-tanned natural leather. Some items within the collection are available in black, natural and off-white colours, as well as various sizes. All of which look just as impressive as each other. Perfect for everyday use, this made to order range offers everything you need in a bag. Wonderful work.
Livia Arena is a Melbourne based lawyer-turned-designer who brought her namesake label to life in 2010. Since the very first collection she committed herself to advocating natural fabrics such as silk, linen and wool, while keeping the silhouettes of the outfits straight and compelling in a very smart way. Her design is without frills while the garments are constructed with a great love for detail. And she is very much into knitting, as her statement regarding the AW14 moodboard shows: Lots of washed-out city landscapes and photos from far-away places. A lot of raw materials — a bunch of different mohair curls, felting samples and about a million knit swatches from my hand loom. — via pagesdigital Livia Arena’s latest collection is an amazing touch and feel experience that combines the softness of high quality fabrics with sculptural shapes. I love the invigorating appeal of Livia’s designs, which definitely make all of her clothing aspirants for long-term favorite pieces.
Issey Miyake is notable for its challenging take on the general concept of fashion. Along with the clever mind of artistic designer Tokujin Yoshioka, the collaboration between two creative visions have produced the TO watch collection that is both minimal in design and unique in material usage. TO, having four versions varied from SILAN001 to SILAN004, the fusion of the metal dial and the leather strap gives a certain boldness and masculinity to the user. With three circular layers, two for each hand, and one for the time marks, which bleed to the edge of the dial, there is something monumental about this small-scale piece of accessory. SILAN003 is the one that stands out the most to me, due to the contrast between the silver and the black, as well as the textures of the two materials. The correspondent silver buckle also helps heighten the elegance of this particular watch. Not only the watch is cautiously designed, its packaging is also carefully articulated with the use of metal spin-brushing. Nesting inside the black foam and the simple instruction is the product itself, waiting to embrace the wrist of the modern man. Photo Courtesy of Andrew Kim
Katamaku is a new series of products, born out of Tokyo, Japan, that utilise unused parts of the membrane material that were to be discarded. They were made into various cases and bags for everyday use with excellent durability. In order to keep its beautiful texture, the products are made from a single sheet of membrane that can be folded to protect things that are to be carried. The designers go on to explain: Katamaku can be assembled with ease, and in order to take advantage of the beauty of the material, we have designed each product as one piece of folded cloth, like a kimono. If you look at the material closely, you will see that each product is finished from the membrane allowing you to really appreciate the beauty of its detail. The minimalistic series includes a card, pass and pen case, a document folder and pochet. All of which are as exquisite as the next. Beautiful work.
Sydney based menswear label Song for the Mute unites Parisian-born, Italian-trained fashion designer Lyna Ty and graphic artist Melvin Tanaya under its wings. Coming from these two different angles, it seems to be the fabric’s surface which initially brings the two creatives together and inspires the work on any new collection: In essence, the label is a symphonic poem of tactile expectations and contemporary dreams. Visiting the flagship store of Song for the Mute in Sydney, I am not only awed by the impeccable fit and the cutting edge use of fabrics, but also by the all-round perfect and inviting set up of the label’s branding, the most friendly staff imaginable, and an open and honest interior design. And although it is definitely a menswear undertaking, there are more than a few pieces in the current collection I would love to wear myself. So I am very much looking forward to the upcoming online shop opening.
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder – and to many, so is art. In any case, the humble pocket has been elevated into the status of beautiful, spellbinding works of art through the lens of luxury still life photographers Maurice Scheltens & Liesbeth Abbenes, with styling by Sam Logan, commissioned for issue no. 9 of The Gentlewoman. It’s a straightfoward, simple enough concept, but the masterful use of light and shadows in highlighting the impeccable detailing of the garments portrayed gives the whole series – and especially the humble pocket – a mistifying, iconic sheen.
The latest work of Australian fashion designer Josh Goot is an intriguing lesson in what happens when someone who usually experiments with rich floral prints and bright color blocking, breaks his design down to a reduced palette of mainly black and white. It results in a timeless, calm collection with an interesting androgynous appeal. And as we are talking about a skilled designer with a strong handwriting, it is still very recognizably a Josh Goot collection: I would describe our aesthetic as optimistic, minimal, urban, confident. Generally what we do is very high saturating, very high contrast. But then sometimes we’d do the opposite. So we would go to more ordinary true tones and do things that are more subtle. I think by that we are inspired by our experience here in Sydney. It does set us apart from the others. (Transcribed from David Jones) One reason why the subtle color palette in Goot’s latest Winter collection works so well is his general sense for sharp, tailored silhouettes, implemented in luxurious high tech fabrics. I always appreciate a look which focuses on the outline of an outfit, rather than merely decorating the body. It is this true attention to form that elevates his...
Founded in 2012 and based in New York City, Chiyome is a studio focused on creating exceptional products based on a key premise: what is essential? Their designs – shoulder bags, backpacks and pouches – are continually infused with a clean and minimalist perspective, manifested through sharp lines, subtle color relationships and smart proportions. HOVER, their Spring/Summer ’14 collection, is all about harmonizing dissonant materials, fusing high (leather, marble) and low (rubber, vinyl) into a sophisticated, luxurious blend. The brand is also committed to designing through social efforts and radical means, sourcing materials from minority-owned local businesses in order to strengthen the social fabric of NY and reduce their carbon footprint, intrinsecally bringing minimalism to all aspects of their practice.
London based fashion label 1205 was founded in 2011 by designer Paula Gerbase. She combines her training at Central Saint Martins College — famous for its unconventional approaches towards fashion — and 5 years of experience as a head of design on London’s Savile Row — well known for its history of bespoke tailoring. All those influences can be easily detected in her razor sharp design, focusing on timeless and utilitarian clothing. While the concept of her contemporary design is crystal clear, she hints at the unpretentious habits of a craftsman in her choice of brand name: I wanted it to be about the clothes, not my name in lights. 1205 is just the day I was born, but more importantly, it’s four numbers that you can read in any language — you’re not wearing a person’s name on your back. I love the unisex touch of 1205’s current collection, evoked by a mix of sporty elements and classic but simple silhouettes, which represent the traditional craftsmanship so distinctive in Paula Gerbase’s work. She finds the perfect balance between masculinity and femininity. For both womenswear and menswear.
The Other Guy Next Door, the debut collection of the young New York based menswear label Cilantro + Ginger, presents well-tailored clothes in fine fabrics and unique, monochromatic prints, infused with Chinese born designer Zhang Qingyun’s approach of simplicity, attention to detail, and a dry sense of humor. The Fall 2014 collection interprets the closet of an unfamiliar neighbor. He has perhaps four shirts in his wardrobe – clean, but rarely ironed. Every now and then you encounter him outside the corner store. He holds a plastic Thank You bag. He wears white, head-to-toe. You never say hello. The core concept of the brand is to capture the continuity of imperfect, everyday minutiae, seeking beauty in the mundane and searching out quality in profusion. This is reflected in the entirety of the label’s visual output, from Jiao Xiang’s pared down styling of the lookbook to a Tumblr feed filled with monochromes and softly-toned palettes. One of my favorite aspects of the brand is the artist collaboration launched alongside each collection, serving as the backbone of the brand’s artistic expression. Kicking off with photographer Ross Mantle and his A Map With Open Space series, the imagery complements the collection pieces as displayed in C+G’s...
It is difficult to fuse the concepts of luxe and youth into a collection, but I believe Christophe Lemaire had successfully done so for Hermès Autumn Winter 2014. The designer rethought the concept of “youth” and its association with streetswear. Here, he took us to a direction of a mature young woman — graceful and feminine. The appearances of materials such as silk, fur, and leather amplifies the richness of the deep earth color palette; however, it’s the tailoring and cuts that redirected the show toward a younger audience. Pieces like the seamlessly monolithic coats contrast the inner garments’ flow of draperies. Minimally, the collarless shirts gives off an Eastern Asian influence that Lemaire has always had — now a signature trademark. Buttonless, pocketless, and almost non-utilitarian, majority of the looks acts as an experimental ground for the harmony of the “young” and the “old,” complemented with small bags and thin belts. Overall, the production was dark, but not sinister; simple, yet not boring. It stirred away from the “cool” trend, only to turned itself to a new identity that ladies can grasp onto. Photo Courtesy of Style.com