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Melitta Baumeister FW16

Fall comes to Melitta Baumeister in shapes and abnormality. Her seasonal lookbook includes an image of geometrical lines with neon liquid coming out of a ventilator. And that is her statement — somewhere in the perfection of minimalism lies an imperfection or even a morbid backstory. That twist is the thing that makes designs exciting.

Baumeister is known for her incredible shapes and forms. This collection follows her signature, but with a more industrial take. Vinyl, glossy, stiff, and seamless fabrics hint toward that aforementioned approach to her vision, almost even technological. The neon yellow then makes sense; it’s the byproduct of a product, it’s the hidden sight to these highly desirable outcomes. It plays an important role in this monochromatic series, stimulating fashion critics for its conceptual value. Nevertheless, through the lens of photographer Paul Jung, her collection for Fall 2016 has a certain softness it, as if the viewers are witnessing some kind of performance, rather than a direct and narrow narrative. All those points confirm my love for the collection, which is surprisingly wearable in my opinion.

I have not loved a fashion collection like this for quite a while. But here, minimalism opens up for interpretation, just like maximalism in Comme des Garçons. They are two opposing polars, but both criticise the current state of designing and producing, with Baumeister taking a more subtle approach. Fortunately, concepts still live, and fashion is thriving on people like Melitta Baumeister and Rei Kawakubo.

2016.03.26 Nhat Vo

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