1205 AW16/17

Persistence, curiosity and a love for painstakingly precise details: That is how the collections of 1205, designed by Paula Gerbase, have been described so far. And her œvre for Autumn/Winter 16/17 confirms, even excel these notions. It’s not only the fit and the choice of fabrics that Paula — who studied at Central St. Martins and honed her craft at Savile Row — particularly focusses on. This season it’s also the haberdashery which received special attention. Reading about the visual qualities of pyrite — or fool’s gold as it is sometimes called — she spared no efforts to purchase a sampling of the perfectly cubic mineral at the only active mine in Spain to decorate the cuffs and silk lanyards of the current collection. And it’s a brilliant match for the minimalist but still surprisingly bright winter collection, fusing shades of white and dark blue with shimmery greys as well as golden-green earthy tones. As always at 1205, it’s all about the texture and qualities of the fabrics as well as the hidden work:

I love putting loads and loads of time and effort into something that no one will see. I think there’s something really beautiful about that — that you’re only doing it for the wearer.
— New York Times

So Paula, who’s been inspired by the distinctiveness of Amish clothing since her childhood, never forgets about the character-building effect of what you choose to wear, whether it’s visible to others or only to you yourself. It seems like she strives for the perfect balance, to enhance instead of interfere with the individual personalities of her customers. Always unique, never florid. But is she a minimalist?

I think it’s a little minimalist in thought to call me minimalist.
— The Economist Magazine 1843

Photography courtesy of Vogue.