In two collections back at her eponymous label, Jil Sander has swiftly reclaimed her brand with her idiosyncratic style of minimalism. This means—of course—that the progressive work of Raf Simons at the brand has been pushed almost entirely aside, in favour of a stripped down, comparably bare-bones approach. Even the stark white stage is indicative of this fact, and it’s highly unsurprising that Ms Sander chose to take this course with her own label. The invitation for the Spring/Summer 2013 show contained the phrase, “Reset to Zero”.
Funnily enough, her two collections remind me of her work with Japanese high-street retailer Uniqlo, but a close comparison of +J and this work would reveal a huge difference in quality and luxury, particularly in the construction and fabric. I like both of her collections as they both look extremely practical and wearable (in an every-day sense), and I’m a fan of her use of colour. But I’m most interested to see what direction she takes the brand forward. Regardless of whether it becomes as radical a success of Mr Simons or remains fairly stagnant, Cathy Horyn quipped quite accurately in the New York Tines that the favourable response to her work reveals a steady interest in minimalism in fashion.