The recent absence of Phoebe Philo and many vanguard veterans in the fashion scene has left a massive void in minimal womenswear. With the recent homogeneity of luxury athleisure, sharp, and architectural pieces are sorely missed amongst the followers of well-constructed garments that mould and transform the body; high fashion slowly came to a stale state of economic focus.
Encountering emerging designers like Peter Do, who is a protégé of Phoebe Philo herself and Derek Lam, is as exciting as finding the needle that has been hiding in the haystack. Debuting his namesake brand just over a year ago, his creations have received great praise for their structural integrity, with the latest ready-to-wear Spring 2019 collection.
For the designer, this warm season means subtraction. The notion can be seen in either the pieces’ cuts, the materials’ opacities or removal of standard garments definitions. Notable articles include a sleeveless translucent A-cut dress with crisp hemlines, a turtleneck knitted sweater with open back, an asymmetrical pleated dress in three colours, and a trench coat with textures mimicking pattern paper’s patterns. Although this selection of standouts might seem disjointed, the lining thread is implied under the aesthetic of women daywear, where the concept of resoluteness is strongly felt.
Irving Penn’s portraits found in Small Trades served as the inception of the design process. The uniforms showcased in the series highlight the unique relationship between profession and identity.
There is no denial of Phoebe’s influence in Peter’s vision. Both of their women hold a willing determination and uncompromising sophistication. However, Peter is his own persona with an indisputable talent. With the likes of Peter Do, that is how high-fashion will be able to strive in the current time of commercialism.