Proenza Schouler is at that point where it picks up its own aesthetics. For a few seasons now, we’ve seen asymmetrical cuts and layerings on coats and skirts, oversized outerwear, structural dresses, etc. The saying of ‘a few seasons now’ might have triggered the idea of repetition and dullness, but this is not the case. In fact for Fall Winter 2013, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez cautiously maneuver through their schematic design with textures and shapes. Experimenting with materials, which is one of PS’s strong points, the boys were able introduce the industry to a whole new dimension of fabrics – varying from the mix of ostrich skin and knit, the play on heat-fused embroideries (I needed to look that up), and the combination of chain mail and tweed, which is actually woven strips of leather. If that doesn’t mean ambitious, then I don’t know what does.
Focusing on materials and constructions, the boys minimalize the palette to just black and white – with hints of lavender, mint, and peach. While high-necked tops and voluptuous coats dominate the front, the back cut-outs of several looks give off a sense of looseness to deliver balance and depth. Belts, either thin or thick, tie each look together nicely, serving as an element to show a woman’s body through these boxy forms. Details like wavy hemlines also aid with adding softness to the armors. Maybe that was the real intention after all – taking away bits and pieces of winter’s harshness.
Edit, edit, edit,… – that’s what I imagine the two designers do before each show, and they’re darn good at it. Careful, articulate, and creative. With their dynamic duality, the future seems quite bright for these CFDA winners.
All Images Courtesy of Proenza Schouler