The textural landscape of fabrics has become increasingly diverse over the years in correspondence to the wider exposure of the acceptance of women’s bodies. Forms of clothing articles have also become varied, with the aim to transform and redefine said bodies through technical modifications.

For artistic director Susana Clayton, the clothes mean more than just a disguise for the bodies. With a modest showcase in Paris, JOSEPH’s first collection under Clayton is a layering playground of folds, pleats, and knits. Oversizing proportions in lengthy trousers and deep-cut blazers play into the notion of a protective armour. Every cut and every fold is rigid—sharp and crisp—delivering an unfazed attitude. Complementarily pieces like grand hoods, elongated knitted dress, and square-toed leather shoes forge bounded characteristics that ignite a desire to explore. Putting all the pieces together seems like an effortful attempt at creating complex forms, but by deconstructing each individual item, the basic essentials then emerge with transparency—minimalist and ready-to-wear.

What stands out most is the break of boxy shapes with the introduction of a sand-coloured silk dress, styled over pleated skirt. The simple gesture gives a breathe of fresh air to the collection, a certain hidden femininity that’s ever so present throughout, yet unearthed and unseen.