Clean cut with an aura of mystique, highly luxurious but modest, conceptually considered but easy to grasp: The latest THE ROW collection pushes the elaborate design language of Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen to a point where they finally might be spared any reference to their childhood stardom.

At least that's what the CFDA panel might have had in mind when rewarding THE ROW with the womenswear designer of the year award for the second time. It has a reassuring element which claims that indeed in fashion it's not only where you come from but also how you develop your assets into the future. It rewards the Olson twins' great instinct for style, but also their incredibly hard work.

The collection is dominated by long floating coat and dress silhouettes, giving the precious fabrics a sense of ease and the minimalist outfits a touch of sacred drama. The colour range is muted but borrows from contrasting sections of the spectrum. Altogether it lends the collection a spiritedness without being ragtag. It's calm but powerful in every detail.